|
Russians to Port
Daily Telegraph Weekend (18 May 1996)
Heralded as Europe's most lavish sea festival ever, the International Festival of the Sea takes place in Bristol next weekend. Already the
first of more than 800 vessels are converging on the city docks from ports all over the globe. On Wednesday the world's largest wooden
sailing ship, American-built frigate HMS Rose, will fire a full broadside to mark her entry into the Avon. Two days later Harvey's schooner,
the Cream of Bristol, will start unloading her cargo of Spanish sherry on a Bristol quayside.
But there is one little ship which arrived here long before anyone else was even thinking of setting sail. Svyatitel' Nikolai, a 16th century
replica Baltic trader, left St Petersburg on September 22, for if she had waited any longer, she would have been locked in by ice. "Even
now, in May, the river at home is still frozen," says 40-year-old Captain Evgeny Lebedev, who arrived with his crew of four men and two
women in early December.
Built of Russian pine and carrying 150 square metres of flaxen square-rig sails, Svyatitel' Nikolai is as historically accurate as possible,
with the exception of her 40hp engine - a modern requirement - and the stainless-steel sink in her tiny galley, her only concession to mod
cons.
There are other nice touches added by its twentieth century crew – like the wooden Russian bear, who sits out on deck when weather
permits, or the woman’s hand lovingly carved on the tiller. This was apparently the work of a former crew member who liked to hold his
girlfriend’s hand whenever he took the helm.
It was a clear crisp day on December 1 when the Nikolai sailed gracefully up the River Avon, the climax of an eventful voyage. Yet even on
this, the very last lap, it was touch and go. “We had to get here from Barry on one tide and the wind wasn’t helping us,” explains Lebedev.
“We knew that at 1.37pm the lock would be closed but the press had all gathered and we couldn’t let them down. It was 1.34 when we
entered the river.”
The wind seemed determined to thwart them throughout most of their two-and-a-half month voyage. Only a week from home, they were
stranded by gales on the isolated Baltic island of Moshnii. Five whole days were lost but they were in no hurry and had plenty to occupy
them, tracking moose, fishing, gathering berries and mushrooms.
Not everyone would relish spending months on end in cramped, spartan conditions but last mate/liaison officer Hannah Kalkstein
dismisses the discomfort with a shrug. "With only seven of us, it's no big deal," she says. "The only real problem is storage - every inch of
the ship is utilised in some way."
The barrels we sat on as we sampled Ukrainian cake by a roaring fire double up as larders; the decorative wall hangings that add a splash
of colour to the main cabin camouflage row upon row of tins and jars.
"The cake was a present from our dentist," says Lebedev. "We went to her for treatment soon after we arrived and she's been helping us
out ever since. I think she likes plying us with sweet things to keep herself in business."
Such gestures of friendship have been typical of their experience wherever they have gone ...
© Alison Thomas
|